A sharp hatchet and a sharp axe make the work much easier. Whether for splitting wood, delimbing or felling trees – with the right technique and the right tools, you can achieve perfect results. This guide will tell you everything you need to know about sharpening axes and hatchets.
A blunt tool makes work unnecessarily difficult and can lead to injuries due to the increased force required. Regular sharpening keeps the cutting edge sharp and minimizes the risk of slipping due to incorrect strokes. The service life of the tool is also extended as less force is required and the cutting edge is worn evenly.
The following is required for sharpening:
Work gloves with feeling in the fingers
Ceramic sanding stone (coarse grit approx. 250 and fine grit approx. 1000) alternatively wet sandpaper with corresponding grit size
Oil or water as a lubricant
Vice or stable base
Strops or leather for stripping
or a wet sanding machine
Make sure that the work area is well lit and tidy.
The grinding angle depends on the intended use of the axe or hatchet.
Hand axe: usually 20 – 25°
Forestry axe: usually 20 – 25°
Splitting axe: usually 25 – 30°
The existing cutting angle of an axe or hatchet should never be changed.
A good way to support this visually is to mark the cutting edge with a waterproof pen, e.g. a permanent marker. This mark should then be sanded away.
To be able to grind an axe or hatchet comfortably, either the abrasive should rest on a non-slip and wobble-free work surface or the forestry tool shouldbe clamped in a viceat a 90°angle.
A comfortable working height is also important in order to keep the sanding angle as constant as possible.
Start with a coarse sanding stone or coarse wet sandpaper (grit approx. 250). Moisten the sanding stone or sandpaper with water or oil to minimize heat development. Then sand evenly with small, circular movements at the correct angle.
It is a good help to mark the edge to be sanded with a colored pencil. As soon as the marking has been sanded away, the rough sanding is complete.
Then switch to the finer sanding stone or wet sandpaper (grit approx. 1000). Repeat the sanding process to obtain a smooth surface. Remove all scratches and unevenness from the coarse sanding. A color marker can also be used here as an aid.
Use a strop, a leather scraper or a leather honing wheel to polish the cutting edge and remove the last fine burrs. This will make the cutting edge particularly sharp.
Check the sharpness by carefully drawing the blade over a sheet of paper. If the blade cuts the paper, the sharpening is perfect. If necessary, repeat the fine sharpening and honing.
Machines can also be used for heavily worn tools or under time pressure:
Belt sander: Ideal for coarse grinding. Be sure to cool the blade regularly to avoid overheating.
Angle grinder: The cutting edge can be machined quickly using a flap disc (grit size 100). Clamp the axe in a vice and carefully guide the grinder along the cutting edge. Cool with water in between.
Wet grinding machine: Very good results can be achieved with a wet grinding machine and suitable grinding stones. Depending on the machine, the cutting angles can be easily adjusted and precisely maintained.
When sharpening mechanically with a belt or angle grinder, there is a risk of overheating. If the cutting edge turns blue, the steel has become too hot and has lost the desired hardness. The cutting edge is structurally damaged and will not be able to maintain its sharpness during use.
After sharpening, proper care is crucial:
Apply a thin film of oil (e.g. Ballistol) to the cutting edge to prevent rust.
Store the axe in a dry place and protect the cutting edge during transportation.
